Liquid wax: 200-300km mileage, effort 30s, very clean

Hot wax: 800-1000km mileage, 1.5-2h time required, slightly lower friction than liquid chain wax, very clean (same)

Both are fully functional lubricants and can be used independently of each other (all versions are compatible with each other, a change is possible immediately).

Recommendation: We recommend that customers who would like to use hot wax use liquid wax. This can reduce stress if you have a spontaneous ride planned for the next day but don't have time to wax.

Graphene: Racers or drivers looking for the lowest friction

Graphite: For the ambitious cyclist who wants to reduce friction and wear

Basis: For those who want a quiet and clean chain without any frills

Yes, all chains are compatible with chain wax. There are no exceptions! Whether it's Shimano Sil-Tec, DLC chains from KMC or a Hard Chrome from Sram. Wippermann chains too ;D Oil sticks to the chains too, there's absolutely no difference.

This varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Customer experience shows that it should be possible to reuse a chain lock 3-5 times.

Diagnosis:

1. General: After 50km of hot wax (break-in period) or after waxing in general, does the chain still run unevenly, loudly and the chain links feel tough? => Then it is because the chain was not degreased correctly! Put the chain in a saucepan and boil in water for 15 minutes. The oil and wax will dissolve, then degrease again with brake cleaner, let it air out and re-wax!

2. Hot wax: Chain gets louder before 800-1000km? Then the wax was boiled too hot! The wax is too liquid and drips out of the chain, which affects the mileage. It may also be that the wax was not heated enough, which makes it harder for the wax to penetrate the chain. Moving the chain in the pot can also help to release air bubbles etc. from the chain.

3. Installation problems: Derailleur pulleys are directional (rattle if installed incorrectly). There is also a metal pin in the derailleur between the upper and lower derailleur pulleys (the chain must not run over it). Worn chainrings can sometimes make noise. Very rarely: chainrings installed the wrong way round (inside).

Yes, of course it works! Hot and liquid wax are both independent lubricants. They can also be combined. And of course all variants can be mixed together.

Skin benefits:

Even waxed chains don't look quite as fresh after a few thousand kilometers. Especially on MTBs and gravel bikes, a bit of mud can stick to them. It can't be compared to oil in any way, but here too the chain doesn't get any cleaner by riding...

The ultrasonic bath can use the heating function to melt the old wax and remove it with ultrasound. It simply serves as a way to reset the chain. (But it is absolutely not necessary! A coarse sponge and soapy water are also sufficient if you want to clean everything.) The procedure was introduced by specialists who want to get every watt out of it and under no circumstances do they want to have any contamination in their wax bath from any kind of dirt.

Additional benefits:

When degreasing, it is very practical for removing the last traces of oil or rinsing away the solvent.

The cassette is neither greased nor waxed; it remains untreated (a lubricating film would not be helpful here, the inside of the chain needs to be lubricated, and this is exclusively where wear occurs).

Derailleur pulleys are still greased. If you make sure that the grease has no direct contact with the chain, this will not cause any problems...

Please use a mason jar and only use nitro thinner or brake cleaner.

Other degreasers such as petrol contain a little oil and do not remove any residual grease. We have explained this in detail here: www.optimize.bike/entfetten

No, only when switching from chain oil to chain wax; new chains also need to be degreased particularly carefully.

If you're experienced, it takes about 30 minutes. It's best to have a chain lock on your bike. If possible, the cassette should also be removed to avoid contaminating the brake discs with oil.

If the chain is particularly dirty, pre-clean it with drive cleaner and then degrease it with nitro thinner or brake cleaner in a jar. The chain must be completely covered.

Other degreasers such as gasoline, white spirit, petroleum, etc. contain a small amount of oil and do not leave a completely oil-free surface. In addition, these degreasers are not as effective.

Acetone is a residual degreasing agent, but is not as effective as nitro thinner, which is recommended for new chains.

Yes, new chains in particular are more difficult to degrease. The grease used is particularly resistant. Please use nitro thinner here. Replace the nitro thinner 2-3 times.

"You usually state 800-1000km (RR)?!"

We skip the cooling process of the chains so that we can produce the chains faster, which unfortunately means that the mileage on the first ride is a little lower. The advantage: the chain is there faster and is also very cheap because of the time saved. In any case, it is not because our hot wax is no longer able to do more...

Our chains are only compatible with Shimano drives.

Yes, all hot and liquid chain waxes are completely compatible with each other (including graphene, graphite, etc.). You don't have to pay attention to anything, just put the chain in the cooking pot or apply the wax.

Either:

(Chain is dirty) pour boiling water over it or place it in boiling water to clean it.

Or:

(Chain clean) Simply wipe dry or rinse with water.

=> the rule is: wipe the chain dry afterwards. A little residual moisture should not cause a problem in the wax pot

Put the wax in a pot, preferably small. Pour the entire 375g of wax into the pot and melt.

(Never use a stove with an open flame, this can cause the wax to ignite!)

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• Thread the chain onto a wire, this makes it much easier to remove.
• Warm up wax to 90C, if it gets warmer it doesn't matter
• Put the chain in and turn off the stove after 2 minutes
• Place the chain in the pot for 15-20 minutes at 90 degrees Celsius. The chain and wax should reach the same temperature
• Accept the chain as soon as a thin layer of skin forms
• Remove the chain and carefully hang it over the wax bath. The heat ensures a better cooling process. 3-5 drops are ideal, more indicates a wax bath that is too hot.
• Move/“break” the chain after at least two hours. The chain can then be installed.
• The chain should last 800-1000km with one treatment. If you ride in wet conditions, the chain should ideally be wiped dry after the ride.
• The chain must be run in for 50km! After that the chain should behave like an oiled chain.

The device needs 40-50 minutes to fully melt and heat the wax. Afterwards, the chain is placed in the bath and subjected to 10 minutes of ultrasonic treatment. Then, the heater and ultrasonic are switched off, and the wax including the chain cools down to approx. 60°C (however, the key factor here is the skin formation on the wax). Then remove the chain and allow it to cool completely.

2 packs of hot wax are absolutely necessary for operation. That's 750g filling capacity.